Rules & Regulations

General Information:
1.) All cars will be completely built upon arrival.
2.) All events will start promptly at 7:00 pm sharp. If you are late, grab a seat in the spectator's area!!
3.) If a car DOES NOT PASS tech inspection or the driver is unwilling to make adjustments for the car
to pass there will be NO refund of Entry Fee, Pit Passes, ETC.!!!
4.) Absolutely NO Alcohol in the Pit Area Period!!!
5.) No Hot-Rodding in the Pits, Keep IT AT AN IDLE!!!
6.) No Arguing with any official. I make the calls!
7.) Unsportsmanlike behavior will not be tolerated!!
8.) Do not hit a drivers door. Do not use your door as a shield!
9.) All drivers will wear a Helmet, Seatbelt, and Eye Protection at all times when in the derby car!
10.) All Cars will have a working fire Extinguisher in the car and within driver reach!
11.) No Sandbagging or Holding period!!

$100.00 protest fee, $50 to protest the vehicle and $50 to me for putting up with Cry Babies!!
Drivers at event only may protest!!

*** Any questions ***
Call ME 1st. Just because it's not here Do Not Assume You Can Do It!!! CALL 1st!

Vehicles Allowed To Compete:
1.) Any American Made Station wagon or Sedan Can be Run.
2.) No Smash top Wagons or Sedagons.
3.) No wedged or severely smashed sedans.
4.) No 70 and lower Chrysler Imperials or Imperial subs in a New Yorker!!
5.) No truck frames, Jeeps, Ambulances, Hearses, or Limos.
6.) No Coil to Leaf conversions period.
7.) Conversions, Imperials, Edges, & Smash tops Compete in Outlaw heats.

Building the Car:
1.) Preparation, Strip the Car completely!!!!
2.) All Glass, Plastic, pot metal, Fiber glass Etc. Must be removed.
Nothing Inside of doors. All exterior hardware must be removed. Door Handles, Chrome Strips,
mirrors, moldings, ETC. If it can fall off, take it off. Horns, Charcoal cans, ETC. I don't want them on
the Track!!
3.) No Station wagon decking Period, No 2nd or 3rd seats or brackets Ect.
4.) No added weight to the car, No buffing, Grinding, or packing Frames.
5.) Front Seat must be mounted securely and have a working seat belt. Do not bolt seat thru frame
6.) Driver door must be padded.
7.) A pipe behind the seat is mandatory, a cowl Pipe is optional.
The Pipes are to be a max of 4" OD. The pipes may be mounted with a 6x6 plate or a 2 ft piece of
angle Iron. An upright may be welded to the floor only.
Not the frame on the drivers + Passenger side to keep the cage from shifting. Not to keep the frame
from bending. On no post cars you may use a leaf spring on both sides, weld to door seam 6" and to
roof 6" max.
8.) Rollover bar is allowed inside or outside weld to pipe behind the seat. No Overkill, you will cut it or
load it!!!
9.) Skid Plates are allowed but must be separate, Oil pan/Transmission pan. No bolting or welding to
10.) One Bar must be welded in the front windshield opening and one in the rear window opening.

Fuel Pump
1.) Electric fuel pumps are allowed. Must have a separate switch clearly marked.
2.) Fuel tank must be steel boat tank or army style jerry can.
3.) All tanks must be mounted securely and covered.

1.) Any tire may be used. No Restrictions .
2.) You may use valve stem protectors.
3.) No studded tires, No Tractor lugs.

Your car must have brakes at inspection time. If you loose braking ability you may be disqualified .

Engines, Transmissions, & rears
1.) Any engine, Trans. Combo may be used, but must be mounted securely. It must be within 4" of the
original Location.
2.) Firewall may be cut to accommodate distributor clearance.
3.) Stock engine mounts may be welded, Engines & Trans. May be chained.
4.) No holes in passenger/ driver floor area except fuel or battery cables. Etc.
5.) If patching rust, it's for safety and not re-enforcement!
6.) Rear ends must be passenger car only . No truck rears, 5 lug only.
7.) You may chain a sub-frame with one warp of chain in front and one in the back. You decide where.
8.) You may tilt the rear to align drive shaft by shortening or lengthening rear control arms, they must
9.) You may reinforce with 2" flat strap, Box in but do not put added metal inside.

Welding ~ No welding allowed except for what is noted here
1.) You may do a 1/3" weld- 3" weld 3" weld ship what ever you want
2.) Door tops may be bent down and welded- No added Metal!!
3.) No stacking filler in gaps.
4.) You may use 3" x 1/16" flat strap to weld doors shut.

#9 Wire
1.) Instead of welding you may use #9 Wire to secure doors + trunk lid.
2.) You can do 4 spots on the doors. 8 Spots on the trunk + hood. 4 strands of wire per spot.
3.) You may use it to secure the bumper to the hood in 2 spots. (4 strands)
4.) You may wire the rear coils in to prevent from loosing them.
5.) You may run 4 strands from the frame rail to frame rail behind rear end.

Chain = 3/8 max anywhere chain is used
1.) You may use chain to secure doors in 4 spots per door
2.) You may use chain to secure trunk in 8 spots
3.) You may use chain to secure the hood in 8 spots
4.) You may chain wagon humps, 1 piece per side
5.) You may connect frame rails 1 piece behind rear end. Do not weld this chain or any others to
frame except where specifically noted.

1.) Any bumper, Auto not truck on any car
2.) No home made bumpers or bumper brackets
3.) You may weld bumper brackets, gloves ECT. To the frame, no added metal anywhere
4.) You may collapse the shocks and weld solid
5.) You may weld the bumper chrome to the inner reinforcement total of 20" Don't weld Solid!!!
6.) You may use 1" Flat strap to secure bumper to body in 2 spots.
    1 piece 3 ft long in 2 spots
7.) You may chain bumpers to frame, weld 1 link to frame and wrap and weld 1 link. Only 2 links per
wrap may be welded.
8.) Only 2 forms of holding bumper on may be used ~ #9 wire + Chain or Weld + Strap. You may not
use all.
9.) No welding to exceed the original mounting points of the bumper!

1.) No Re-welding of factory frame seams.
2.) No welding on frame except front + rear bumper brackets period. Is that clear enough?
3.) All body biscuits must be in place and stock.
4.) Frames may be notched but cut may not be re-welded.
5.) Original body for that year frame must be used.
6.) You may replace bolts but must be factory size.
7.) You may have washers on top + bottom. 3" washer max.
8.) No painting or under coat on the frame.

Rad & Rad support.
1.) Radiator must be in stock location. No added holding (Surge) tanks allowed.
2.) Lower core support bushings may be removed and ¾ max ready rod (all thread)
may be used. Bolts can come thru hood and will be counted as hood bolts.
3.) No welding to core support. For Re-enforcement purposes except for what is black & white
4.) Rad may be banded for security
5.) Overflow must point at ground for safety. Foam is ok, but must be able to inspect core support!

Trans Coolers
1.) Trans coolers will be allowed.
2.) Trans coolers must be covered.
3.) All lines must be double clamped.

1.) Only 12v may be used.
2.) Max of two batters in car.
3.) Batteries must be securely mounted inside car and must be covered.

Air Cleaner
1.) The car must have one.
2.) There must be a 20" around to put out a fire.

Cut outs
1.) Cut outs may be folded over twice.
2.) No welding cut outs.
3.) 3- 3/8 bolts max per fender/ ¼ panel.
4.) 6- 1" washers per fender/ ¼ panel.
5.) Must have 2 cut outs per deck lid, 8' min if too small you will cut larger!

1.) Must be factory for that year/make.
2.) You may used spring spacers or weld a pipe on the lower control arm to the bottom of the frame to
attain max height. FRONT ONLY!
3.) Do not weld the upper A-Arm to the frame.
4.) Do not modify the steering linkages in any way.
5.) No leaf springs on top of the main spring.
6.) 9 leafs max- NO truck Leafs.
7.)Springs must be 5/16 thick max, if 5/16 wrench won't fit you won't run!
8.) 3 clamps per spring per side - home made, ok
9.) No duct tape on springs Period!
10.) No welded springs.
11.) All spring packs will have a minimum of a 1" stair step starting at the spring eye.
12.) No solid rear shocks.
13.) No springs on top of the axle, all spring packs must be under the rear housing.

1.) Instead of welding or wiring your hood/trunk you may use 8 bolts to secure your hood/trunk. ¾ max
diameter, 3" washers.
2.) No bolts except front core/radiator support bolts may go thru or touch the frame .
3.) All bolts are to be 7/16 = Body bolts
4.) All cut out Bolts 3/8= Fender wells + ¼ panel cut outs
5.) Zip Screws 5/16 = Hood cut out/ trunk cut out
6.) No washer may exceed 3" = except 2 on hood may be 5" to run chain thru.
7.) No bold will exceed 8" in length . Except the 2 Rad support bolts.
8.) 3- 3x3 angle Iron Pieces may be installed inside bottom of station wagon end gate. This is the only
inside welding allowed - Except for the Cage!

Attention Drivers!!!

  I am pleased to announce my coming together with the
gentlemen who own the Smithton Hole. We bring you a 6 event demo Derby series for the
2006 season. This series will focus on the old iron 71-76 GM's and 70 & up Chryslers. We are hoping
that this will be such a success that we'll continue until there are no cars left to be found to run. There
will be a filler heat each night. One night 80's cars, one night outlaw cars, one night compact cars, and
so on. I will alternate with whatever one is more popular than the others. Hopefully this will keep the
crowd and drivers happy while still becoming a success.

  Now for those who don't know me, I am Jeff (Rogaine) Rathgeb. I have been directly involved with
demolition derby since I was 14 years old. I am very well educated in the building and all aspects of
the Derby cars. I have been the crew chief of a professional demolition derby team for 20 years. Most
of you know the black & orange cars.

   I recently 5 years ago, have taken a break from building the cars 100% hands on, to a consulting
role. I have been the head tech inspector for the XDDL (Extreme Demolition Derby League) for 3
years. I have been traveling to 8-10 events per year all over the United States from California to North
Carolina. I am also the head tech inspector for the Hot Rockin' 4th Celebration in Ogden, Utah. So
what I'm getting at is there is nothing that you as a builder or driver can do, that I have not seen.
I have inspected the Best Cars all over this country. You will not get any weld, bold, Plate etc. past me.
Don't even Try . You will be Embarrassed! And if I feel that it's that blatant you won't run the car. All
70's class cars will be lifted off the ground and inspected underneath. That is how I do it, that's the
way it will be done. I also use a frame scope to check inside frames, so don't do it!! I will find it.

  This has the potential to be the best derby series on the East Coast. So let's all get together &
Support it. These are the best rules for building I have ever come up with. They let all be fair and let
you keep the cars together more than 1 derby.

          Hope to see you all this summer!!

2006 Smithton Hole

Demolition Derby Schedule

May 13 ~        70's Class with Compacts

June 10 ~       70's Class with Outlaws

July 8 ~          70's Class with 80's Class

Aug. 12 ~       70's Class with Compacts

Sept. 9 ~        70's Class with Trucks

30~       Team Night with
                   Powder Puff~Details to follow

Oct. 14 ~        Season Championship
                    70's Class with Season Points
                    Crowning Champion

For all of your World Wide Derby Information Log onto ...


*Become a member of the

Demo Derby Drivers Association Today!*

For Technical questions contact head Official:
Jeff Rathgeb- 724-640-5113
Or Email at:
Or on The website: Superwrench200

Points Breakdown

6 Points = Register & Participate

4 Points = Qualifying Heat/Grudge
                <Qualify for the Main>

6 Points = Feature Win

4 Points = 2nd Place in Feature

2 Points = 3rd Place in Feature

"2006 Smithton Hole"
Pay - Out Structure:

Feature Winner                       ~ $700
                 2nd                    ~ $400
                 3rd                    ~ $200

Heat Money Co/winners             ~ $100

Championship, Oct 14                  ~ $50Entry
 1st Place Champ                    ~ $3,000
  2nd Place                              ~ $1,500
 3rd Place                              ~ $500
* One Driver per Event will be Chosen to receive $25 for traveling the
furthest for the Smithton hole event*

All Co Winners Qualify for Championship

Championship Night: $50 Entry Fee
*Non - Qualifiers*

All Entry Fees  ~ $30  = 1 Car, 1 Driver
  Except Championship Night.

  All Special Events = 100% Pay Back


CELL  (724) 797-1822
HOME   (724) 872-4026